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I don’t make to-do lists, but if I did, today’s would have gone something like this: 1. get drunk, 2. get laid, 3. go surfing (not necessarily in that order.) Noticeably absent from the list: get arrested. And yet here I am, spending my eighteenth birthday with my back against the wall of the Colonel’s hunting cabin, two FBI agents prowling the dark with their guns drawn, both trying to get me to confess to the murder of my friend Preston DeWitt.

Surely Ma would come back for her birthday, so the morning after the harvest moon she put on the calico dress and stared down the lane. Kya willed Ma to be walking toward the shack, still in her alligator shoes and long skirt. When no one came, she got the pot of grits and walked through the woods to the seashore. Hands to her mouth, she held her head back and called, “Kee-ow, kee-ow, kee-ow.” Specks of silver appeared in the sky from up and down the beach, from over the surf. “Here they come. I can’t count as high as that many gulls are,” she said. Crying and screeching, the birds swirled and dived, hovered near her face, and landed as she tossed grits to them. Finally, they quieted and stood about preening, and she sat on the sand, her legs folded to the side. One large gull settled onto the sand near Kya. “It’s my birthday,” she told the bird.

So even though she couldn’t remember the date of her birth, one evening when the moon rose swollen and golden from the lagoon, Kya said to herself, “I reckon I’m seven.” Pa never mentioned it; certainly there was no cake. He didn’t say anything about her going to school either, and she, not knowing much about it, was too afraid to bring it up. Surely Ma would come back for her birthday, so the morning after the harvest moon she put on the calico dress and stared down the lane. Kya willed Ma to be walking toward the shack, still in her alligator shoes and long skirt. When no one came, she got the pot of grits and walked through the woods to the seashore. Hands to her mouth, she held her head back and called, “Kee-ow, kee-ow, kee-ow.” Specks of silver appeared in the sky from up and down the beach, from over the surf. “Here they come. I can’t count as high as that many gulls are,” she said. Crying and screeching, the birds swirled and dived, hovered near her face, and landed as she tossed grits to them. Finally, they quieted and stood about preening, and she sat on the sand, her legs folded to the side. One large gull settled onto the sand near Kya. “It’s my birthday,” she told the bird.

A woman’s voice came wailing on the wind. Norman looked up and spotted Sandra high up on an even steeper funnel of snow and ice. She was crying: ‘Your father is dead. What are we going to do?’ One of her shoulders was hanging weirdly. There was a bloody wound on her forehead, matted with hair. Then he saw his dad, still in his seat but slumped awkwardly forward. Norman turned around on the steep slope and inched over towards him, sneakers pathetically trying to hold an edge. He slipped and almost plummeted like a bobsleigh down the mountain. He caught a hold. Then he started crawling back up. It took him thirty minutes to climb 6 m (20 ft). His dad was doubled over. ‘DAD!’ No response. Snow was falling on his father’s curly hair. Above him, Sandra sounded delirious. By the time he was four, Norman had skied every black run at Mammoth. On his first birthday, his dad had him strapped to his back in a canvas papoose and took him surfing. Reckless, perhaps, but it had given the boy an indomitable spirit. Eleven-year-old Norman hugged his dad for the last time then tracked back across the slope to see what he could salvage from the wreckage. There were no ice axes or tools, but he did find a rug. He took it and scrabbled back to Sandra. She couldn’t move. Somehow he got her under the ragged remains of the plane’s wing and they wrapped themselves in the rug and fell into an exhausted sleep. Norman was woken around noon by a helicopter. He leapt up, trying to catch the crew’s attention. They came very, very close but somehow didn’t see him. They were going to have to get off this mountain themselves. A brief lull in the storm gave them a sudden view. The slope continued beneath their feet, sickeningly sheer, for hundreds of feet. Then lower down there were woods and the gully levelled a little before a massive ridgeline rose again. Beyond that lay a flatter meadow of snow and, at the edge of the world, a cabin. Sandra wanted to stay put. She was ranting about waiting for the rescuers. For a moment Norman nearly lay down beside her and drifted off to sleep. The

You know that friend who’s always planning something, and gets a little too enthusiastic? That would probably be me. I love birthday parties because there’s cake, any excuse to wear a costume, and movies that I can’t guess the end to. I’m looking for someone who lives to laugh, who wants the wild, chaotic mess that comes with falling in love, and someone who could sit on the cliffs at Hendry’s Beach and listen to the crashing surf until the sun has slipped into the ocean.

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Make another list. A list of what you did today. It doesn't matter what day it is, weekday, weekend, holiday, birthday, the calendar date is irrelevant. Write down all the things that occupied your time on a given day. Woke up, ate breakfast, hit the gym, went to work, surfed the Internet, had a coffee with a colleague, did some work, ate some lunch, did some more work, slipped out to buy new sneakers, clicked around on social media sites, went home, called a parent, watched TV, ate dinner, changed outfits, met someone for a drink, made out with them on a street corner, caught a taxi home, read a book, went to sleep. That's what you believe in. According to Greta, your belief system is how you actually spend your time every day.

Sammy started surfing big waves with Eddie and hanging out at the graveyard on occasion. “Over time I became friendly with the family and eventually ended up spending a lot of time with them,” Lee says. “I admired that family for their cohesiveness. And I got to know the father really well, and he became a personal friend of mine. He was easy to talk to, and he had a lot of aloha. The father was a really charismatic man. He wasn’t educated in the book sense but he was a charismatic individual, and he appealed to people from all walks of life, people from this country and other countries as well. You either loved the guy or you hated him. He was very blunt but very generous. His generosity knew no bounds if he liked you.” Pops welcomed Sammy into his family like a son because he was like an older brother to Eddie and the boys, taking them to the beach and looking out for them. Pops was also grateful to Sammy for introducing his sons to famous surfers like Fred Van Dyke and Peter Cole, who had taught Sammy (and his fellow surfers) at Punahou School. Like John Kelly, these men were champion big-wave riders and gods in Eddie’s eyes. For Sammy’s 25th birthday, Pops threw a party for him and invited

... in sunshine both space and time expand where was I? coming alive on my birthday breaking to pieces on the rainbow islands and who is she? a girl today staying and straying on the rainbow islands from a sunlit sea see mountaintop to mountaintop arising hear the crackle of rocks in the bright light that falls everywhere into place forget your knees to the breathlessness of peaks and find them again by some pebbles … seize me, release me, leave me everywhere in space to be dispersing and the colors of the wind parade on the windswept way of the senses... crunching over the rough-country cliffs a cold drizzle begins— inhale huge drafts of water in the air sizzle to the sprinkling feeling of drizzle on skin watch the surf pour to crevices it has worn, hold— and back out the black rock pushing … whisk her, brisker, drop her swifter over the crags like swift rains and the rainclouds and the fierce winds howl after the raging of the waves... and to know every foot of the land that holds you— and, with soiled-brown hands, set against the green of the land and blue of the sky sign the earth in gentle, rolling rows loose with your tines the living, pulsing root of a carrot plant bury the plants in their beds to live and bury me insensibly over the earth from your open, rolling cart lying on rock, drifting with the clouds — the only constant is constant change— rippling flames, patterns in the waves — paradise and creation are only sensations— catching daisies, inflating with the stars — and heaven and earth forever simultaneous! ... and the wheeling colors celebrate on their way without a destination... wandering islands roam until they die— with footsteps wrapt and dwelling in whatever kind of weather we live our lives with the space to be free find in our eyes horizons on horizons

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