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Gramphu—fifteen kilometres after the Rohtang Pass while heading from Manali to Keylong—is more a collection of tea shops than a village. If you turn right here, you’re on the road to Kaza. It is this road that often makes me believe that if there were a god of landscaping amongst the multitude of gods that make up the Hindu pantheon, then the Himalayan district of Spiti would quite simply be the pinnacle of his or her art.
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