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WHENEVER business or pleasure takes me north of the border, I seize the chance to savour one (or more) of Appleton’s Fairest, as these dappled, cone-shaped beauties are never to be met with in England. The reason is not that they do not travel well, for in fact, properly packed and stored they keep beautifully, and indeed, for maximum enjoyment they should be eaten not only when fresh from the tree, for although they provide a brisk, juicy, sharply piquant treat in late September, by the New Year the stored apples have become sweeter and drier, with a magnificent yet subtle aroma, and a honeyed, almost nut-like flavour, particularly good taken with cheese and a fine Port wine after dinner, and in this state they will last, as they say “til the apples come again,” with no diminution in goodness. I myself have partaken of the Fairest as late as August, when the new crop is still a-ripening on the trees. No, the only reason they do not adorn the tables of discerning connoisseurs in England as well as Scotland is that the Scots love them too well to export their small crop for the pleasure of the “Sassenach,” and keep them a closely guarded treasure.
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