Famous Surfer Quotes

… fretting about forgetting can be a self-fulfilling prophecy. So, let’s all take a collective deep breath. The next time you struggle with the name of that famous surfer or forget to buy milk at the store, you can remember that these are examples of normal forgetting and, hopefully, you can relax. Forgetting happens. If you stress about it, it will happen even more.

front of a bookshelf. John didn’t have very many books, maybe a couple dozen on this bookshelf. She took her hand out of her mouth and tapped on the spine of one of the books. “What’s in this book? Monsters and Myths.” “Just like it sounds. It’s a compendium of monsters and mythology.” “Like vampires and werewolves?” John nodded. “As well as the more famous gods and demons throughout human history.” “You mind if I look through it?” said Emma. “Be my guest. I haven’t looked at that thing in years.” Emma pulled the book down and sat on the couch and began leafing through it. I looked back at the computer and pointed to it. “Can you check again?” John rolled his eyes. He tapped a couple keys and then said, “Still nothing new.” “Should we go surfing then?” I said. “But,

Experimentation also proved serendipitous for Greg Koch and Steve Wagner, when they were putting together the Stone Brewing Co. in Escondido, California, north of San Diego. It was destined to become one of the most successful brewing startups of the 1990s. In The Craft of Stone Brewing Co. Koch and Wagner confess that the home-brewed ale that became Arrogant Bastard Ale and propelled Stone to fame in the craft brewing world, started with a mistake. Greg Koch recalls that Wagner exclaimed “Aw, hell!” as he brewed an ale on his brand spanking new home-brewing system. “I miscalculated and added the ingredients in the wrong percentages,” he told Koch. “And not just a little. There’s a lot of extra malt and hops in there.” Koch recalls suggesting they dump it, but Wagner decided to let it ferment and see what it tasted like. Greg Koch and Steve Wagner, founders of Stone Brewery. Photograph © Stone Brewing Co. They both loved the resulting hops bomb, but they didn’t know what to do with it. Koch was sure that nobody was “going to be able to handle it. I mean, we both loved it, but it was unlike anything else that was out there. We weren’t sure what we were going to do with it, but we knew we had to do something with it somewhere down the road.”20 Koch said the beer literally introduced itself as Arrogant Bastard Ale. It seemed ironic to me that a beer from southern California, the world of laid back surfers, should produce an ale with a name that many would identify with New York City. But such are the ironies of the craft brewing revolution. Arrogant Bastard was relegated to the closet for the first year of Stone Brewing Co.’s existence. The founders figured their more commercial brew would be Stone Pale Ale, but its first-year sales figures were not strong, and the company’s board of directors decided to release Arrogant Bastard. “They thought it would help us have more of a billboard effect; with more Stone bottles next to each other on a retail shelf, they become that much more visible, and it sends a message that we’re a respected, established brewery with a diverse range of beers,” Wagner writes. Once they decided to release the Arrogant Bastard, they decided to go all out. The copy on the back label of Arrogant Bastard has become famous in the beer world: Arrogant Bastard Ale Ar-ro-gance (ar’ogans) n. The act or quality of being arrogant; haughty; Undue assumption; overbearing conceit. This is an aggressive ale. You probably won’t like it. It is quite doubtful that you have the taste or sophistication to be able to appreciate an ale of this quality and depth. We would suggest that you stick to safer and more familiar territory—maybe something with a multi-million dollar ad campaign aimed at convincing you it’s made in a little brewery, or one that implies that their tasteless fizzy yellow beverage will give you more sex appeal. The label continues along these lines for a couple of hundred words. Some call it a brilliant piece of reverse psychology. But Koch insists he was just listening to the beer that had emerged from a mistake in Wagner’s kitchen. In addition to innovative beers and marketing, Koch and Wagner have also made their San Diego brewery a tourist destination, with the Stone Brewing Bistro & Gardens, with plans to add a hotel to the Stone empire.

A crowd began to gather round to watch the Heat begin. They soon would learn which one would earn the famous Golden Fin! The boards were tied to dolphin guides that pulled them like a sleigh to what they called The Channel, every surfer's Dream Highway!

Diary of a Surfer Villager, he had become a best-selling author and a worldwide celebrity. He was glad to have survived the trials of his youth, and, he had to admit, being famous was pretty cool, but all he ever wanted to be was a surfer. Jimmy breathed a melancholic sigh and turned away from the shore and looked back at the water. The redstone-powered wave machine invented by his friend Emma had just pushed another wave towards him and the handful of other surfers waiting for it. It looked like a good

Sammy started surfing big waves with Eddie and hanging out at the graveyard on occasion. “Over time I became friendly with the family and eventually ended up spending a lot of time with them,” Lee says. “I admired that family for their cohesiveness. And I got to know the father really well, and he became a personal friend of mine. He was easy to talk to, and he had a lot of aloha. The father was a really charismatic man. He wasn’t educated in the book sense but he was a charismatic individual, and he appealed to people from all walks of life, people from this country and other countries as well. You either loved the guy or you hated him. He was very blunt but very generous. His generosity knew no bounds if he liked you.” Pops welcomed Sammy into his family like a son because he was like an older brother to Eddie and the boys, taking them to the beach and looking out for them. Pops was also grateful to Sammy for introducing his sons to famous surfers like Fred Van Dyke and Peter Cole, who had taught Sammy (and his fellow surfers) at Punahou School. Like John Kelly, these men were champion big-wave riders and gods in Eddie’s eyes. For Sammy’s 25th birthday, Pops threw a party for him and invited

with his feet. Driving up and down its face, Eddie rode the wave until it finally petered out in the deep-water channel. When he paddled back out, John and Sammy congratulated him on his ride. They hooted for each other whenever someone got a good one. Eddie ended up catching some of the biggest waves and riding them all the way to the inside section. “I mean, he blew everyone away at Sunset that day,” Sammy recalls. “Eddie was a natural: he just took to the waves and everybody was saying, ‘Who the hell is this guy?!’ He was easy to like, a humble guy. And certainly his talent was immense and noticeable right away. Because of his skills, he quickly established his reputation.” Sammy started surfing big waves with Eddie and hanging out at the graveyard on occasion. “Over time I became friendly with the family and eventually ended up spending a lot of time with them,” Lee says. “I admired that family for their cohesiveness. And I got to know the father really well, and he became a personal friend of mine. He was easy to talk to, and he had a lot of aloha. The father was a really charismatic man. He wasn’t educated in the book sense but he was a charismatic individual, and he appealed to people from all walks of life, people from this country and other countries as well. You either loved the guy or you hated him. He was very blunt but very generous. His generosity knew no bounds if he liked you.” Pops welcomed Sammy into his family like a son because he was like an older brother to Eddie and the boys, taking them to the beach and looking out for them. Pops was also grateful to Sammy for introducing his sons to famous surfers like Fred Van Dyke and Peter Cole, who had taught Sammy (and his fellow surfers) at Punahou School. Like John Kelly, these men were champion big-wave riders and gods in Eddie’s eyes. For Sammy’s 25th birthday, Pops threw a party for him and invited